"Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it." – Mary Oliver

Oxford Day 1: Walking Tour and Bodliean Library

Tuesday 29th April 2025

Sidenote: We arrived from London by train late the previous afternoon and had dinner at Kazbar, a fun restaurant and bar with Middle Eastern and Spanish tapas-style dishes. Highly recommended.

Before I start, I’d like to say, that I loved Oxford. The history, the books, the small extremely walkable city centre. I stayed in a small hotel right in the middle of Oxford and it was perfect. I stepped out my door and all the sights were within a quick walk. There are also very few cars in the centre of Oxford because there is virtually no parking so most people use the buses. It also felt very safe, unless you leave your bike—bike theft is the most common crime.

We started the day with breakfast at Oxford Brunch Bar. I had the Full Oxford and it was good. The restaurant was just in the next street from our hotel so we popped back afterwards to clean our teeth and potter around before meeting our friend from church at 10 am at St Michael at the North Gate. When we realised we were going to be in Oxford at the same time (he was staying there for 6 weeks) he offered to take me on our tour. G said hello and headed to the train station to start his work. A little background: our friend writes and illustrates children’s books, began his working life as a journalist, has studied in Oxford previously for six months and has a very, dry typically Aussie sense of humour. His advice when he heard I was going to Oxford was not to take a walking tour because they make things up. (I’m not sure which tour he meant so I can’t warn you away). His tour hit the spot—informative and entertaining, and I presume all true. I won’t include photos and descriptions of everything we saw because there’s a lot, plus some of them I went back to later in my stay, so I’ll show you them in later posts.

One of the tiny streets in Oxford.
The historic pub where many famous people have got drunk.
The beer garden. I’m sure it would have been full a few hours later.
The entrance to New College.
New College Quad. Only professors are allowed to walk on this grass.
Rowing is clearly a big thing
The gardens. Anyone is allowed on the grass here. The brick wall is the old city walls.
New College Dining Hall
New College Cloisters. These were used as a filming location for Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. The tree you can see is where Draco gets turned into a Ferret. They are also the setting for when Harry warns Cedric about the dragons here.
Bridge of Sighs. Connects two parts of Hertford College.
Bodliean Library.
The entrance to the old School of Natural Philosophy or in modern terms School of Science.

After our little wander I went back to my hotel to rest my feet and looked up the Bodliean Libraries website to check if any of the tours were available. There was one of the Divinity School and the Duke Humfrey’s Library at 1 pm so I booked a ticket and then rested until then. The Duke Humfrey library was opened in 1488 with a donation of manuscripts by Humfrey. Unfortunately most of these books were destroyed because they were “too Catholic” in 1550. In 1598 the library was refurbished and refilled with a new collection of books given by Sir Thomas Bodley, after whom the Bodliean libraries are named. The library is a legal deposit library, so it receives a copy of every publication in the UK. The library is spread over a number of sites, but this tour was just of the historic Duke Humfrey Library. The library was also a location for filming of the Hogwart’s Library scenes in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. I met the tour guide in the Divinity School who then took our group upstairs to the library.

Entrance to the Divinity School
Bodliean Library
Books removed for reading are marked with a slip
Originally, the books were all chained to the shelves, allowing them to go as far as the reading bench in front.
A tunnel connects the Old and New Bodliean Buildings with a mechanical book conveyor and Lansom Tube for book orders. No longer in use but left in place.
So many books!

After our library tour we went toured the Divinity School which is underneath. It is used for lectures, discussions and oral examinations. Originally all exams were oral and consisted of the student being grilled by the professor in front of his (of course it was always his) peers. There was no set time limit and they could go on for hours. EEK! I’m glad it wasn’t me. Apart from the main hall there is a council chamber and a room where disciplinary hearings were held among other things. All the rooms are very beautiful with amazing ceilings and dark wooden paneling and furniture. The main hall was the setting for the Hogwart’s infirmary scenes.

Main Hall

The tour went for an hour, then I wandered back to my accommodation for a little bit of time off my feet before heading out to do an interval workout around Christ Church Meadows. This flood prone area sits in the fork where the Thames and Cherwell Rivers meet. It is a picturesque green space right with a flat gravel path all around the edge which was perfect for my run.

I was still struggling with my fitness due to jetlag but I got it done then walked back to my hotel for a shower. Dinner was at the Plough Inn, right on the corner of the street my hotel was on. I followed it up with a golden hour walk through Oxford.

Radcliffe Camera, which houses the Radcliffe Science Library.

Steps: 23,270. Even with my run, the compact nature of Oxford means there is no where near the amount of walking required as when I was in London.


Comments

4 responses to “Oxford Day 1: Walking Tour and Bodliean Library”

  1. Oxford looks so charming. And all the Harry Potter filming sets must be fun to see.
    Now I wish I could travel to the UK.

  2. I LOVED this. Oxford really does look like the perfect summation of European architecture and life. And of course I appreciated seeing the nods to Harry Potter. My daughter would be tripping all over herself with delight (she loves both the movies and the books to an extreme degree).

    I had to laugh about the grass. I visited a university once where the beautiful grass was littered with signs saying to stay off the grass. I know it takes a lot of time and effort, but that felt a bit too precious for me. (Especially since signs take away from the aesthetic anyway.)

  3. Damn, now I feel homesick for the UK, Oxford, and my last trip to France where we drove around the countryside. It still is truly one of the best little cities in the UK.

  4. Before I read the caption under the pictures, I thought THIS LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING OUT OF HARRY POTTER. Wild. How great to have a friend to tour you. I want to sign up for that tour option. Really cool pics. The narrow street reminds me of a street in Ireland.

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