"Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it." – Mary Oliver

Wales Day 4: Lon Las Ogwen Railtrail, LLanddwyn Island, Holyhead, Menai Bridge

The start of the trail

Monday May 5th 2025

We started our day with a long run along the Lon Las Ogwen Railtrail. The railway was originally built to transport slate from Penhryn Quarry to the Penhryn Port. We parked in Bangor and ran the short distance to Penhryn Port and the start of the trail. I was doing my long run and planned to run out for an hour then back again. G was still recovering from the London Marathon so he did a shorter run then went to wait at a cafe. In the end I just made it to Bethseda, about 18K there and back. The trail was beautiful, and even though it was all uphill to Bethseda, it was never super steep (about 175 m of elevation in total). Coming back downhill was fun.

Penhryn Port
The Trail
Along the trail
Ogwen River near Bethseda
This is as far as I got

I got a bit turned around once in Bangor, but eventually found the cafe, Clio Lounge where I was meeting G. I had the big veggie breakfast and a hot chocolate. Then it was back to our accommodation for a shower and a nap. We had some active plans for the afternoon and I needed to recuperate. Once that was taken care of we headed back out, this time to Anglesea. There are many great walks to do on Anglesea, but I picked Llanddwyn Island because the photos looked stunning and it provided a combination of history and landscapes. We started the walk at the Llanddwyn Beach carpark. The different walks are signposted, but you basically head through the forest a short way, then take the path to the beach and walk along there to the island. It is really a headland that becomes an island at high tide, so do check the tide before you head out. On the afternoon we were there the tide was running out so we knew we’d be fine. From the beach and the island there are beautiful views back to Snowdonia and the Llyn Peninsula. I even managed to pick out the mountain I had planned for our hike the following day.

Once on the island we followed the meandering path along the coastline, then came back through the middle. The island was a pilgrimage site for St Dwynwen, patron saint of lovers, until King Henry VIII put an end to pilgrimages. The church here, which is now in ruins was once one of the wealthiest churches in Wales. There are also two lighthouses, pilot’s cottages, two stone crosses erected in the saint’s memory and wild ponies.

Looking towards the Llyn Peninsula
Llyn Peninsual in the background, Tŵr Mawr lighthouse on the right and you can just see Tŵr Bach lighthouse on the left.
Ruins of St Dwynwn Church
Tŵr Mawr
Tŵr Bach

It was mid-afternoon by the time we’d finished our walk so we decided to drive up to Holyhead and the South Stack Lighthouse. We knew we would be too late to visit the lighthouse but thought we’d take in the views. Visibility was pretty good, but we couldn’t see Ireland which is supposed to be a possibility on clear days. We did see the ferries plying the waters, as they leave from Holyhead for Ireland.

Looking down the west coast of Angleasea with the Llyn Peninsula in the background.
South Stack Lighthouse.

We still had a little bit of time before our dinner booking and I really wanted to get a photo of Menai Bridge, so I did a little google and found a likely place for good views. The Menai Bridge is a suspension bridge finished in 1826 that spans the Menai Straits between Bangor and Anglesea. Until then ferries took passengers and freight across this dangerous stretch of water. Cattle was a large industry on Anglesea and they had to be swum across the Straits until the bridge was built.

Menai Bridge

For dinner we ate at Dylan’s in Menai Bridge (the town on Anglesea where the bridge crosses). We both had fish and it was excellent. Highly Recommended.

Total Steps: 37,030


Comments

9 responses to “Wales Day 4: Lon Las Ogwen Railtrail, LLanddwyn Island, Holyhead, Menai Bridge”

  1. Holy moley, that’s a lot of steps! Another gorgeous post – I think you’re secretly working for Welsh Tourism!!!

  2. Wow. Your photos are stunning. I have been to Ireland several times and Scotland once. I think I will add Wales to places I would like to visit. Looks amazing. I wish I liked fish. I did not grow up eating it, but I would like to be able to count it as a food I enjoy. It is an expensive dish to order or prepare and then not like it. Although, Coach will eat anything. For me, I think it is a texture thing.

  3. Being from arid California, all of that green is just a balm to my eyes. So lovely! We went to the far West Coast of France in 2018, and the ruins are very similar…I guess they’re both Celtic, so it makes sense. Just lovely.

    1. I think Brittany has similarities to Wales and also Cornwall.

  4. This is an absolutely gorgeous part of the world and I hope to tour it myself some day! Of course I loved seeing the lighthouse.

    1. I thought of you when I was putting this post together—three lighthouses in one day!

  5. I am blown away by the number of steps. I was celebrating myself when I broke 20,000 steps earlier this week but you just killed it. Wow.

    I am in love with the landscape. So beautiful.

    I have a question: when you do trail running do you stop to take e pictures or just do it while running?

    1. That was a lot of steps for me; my legs were definitely feeling it. I always stop to take photos. Most of my runs are easy pace, and meant to be slow so taking a stop to take some photos is no problem. Once a week I’ll do intervals at particular speeds and then I wouldn’t stop during the intervals, but I’m also not usually looking at the scenery when I’m doing intervals either.

  6. […] was our last day in the north of Wales. We started our dya back at the Lon Las Ogwen Rail Trail for a run and then breakfast at Clio’s again. Then we had showers, squeezed in a nap and […]