"Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it." – Mary Oliver

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Middle Rhine Valley Day 2: Hike Oberwesel to Bacharach

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle

Friday September 28th 2026

This morning I woke up to do my scheduled run: 50 min easy plus 6 strides. I decided to avoid the rocky switchback and ran out along the road and down to Oberwesel before running upstream along the river until I was opposite Pfalzgrafenstein Castle. This is a toll castle built in 1326 on an island in the Rhine. Then I turned around and ran back, stopping in town to meet G at a bakery where he was having coffee. We picked up some rolls for our lunch then walked back up the hill. I had a shower before we headed to breakfast. The hotel had these little glass pots with cooked tomato and an egg in them. helped myself to several everyday we were there. They were really yummy.

View from the Castle Tower over Oberwesel

After breakfast the Tower Museum was open so we popped in there for a look. It gave a bit of an overview of various aspects of castle construction and life. From the top of the tower we had the most magnificent views over the town and surrounding countryside. Heading back down we pottered in our room and I had a nap.

Looking back upstream

Around midday I woke up and we got ready to head off for our main activity for the day—a hike along the RheinBurgenWeg to Bacharach. This was a 12.40km hike (from the castle and with a little bit of a shortcut and backtrack due to us missing the path at one stage). There were quite a few steep up and downs as we crossed various streams running through valleys before the final very steep descent into Bacharach. The trail goes through a mix of farmland, vineyards and forest with views at various points along the river. This was a great hike (maybe not the best thing to do a week and a bit from the marathon) but I would highly recommend it. It took us about 3 hours not including our stop for lunch.

The vineyards are so steep. We saw one person tilling between the rows and they use a machine that they let go down on a thick wire and then winch it back up again once it reaches the bottom.
Oh look, this is also part of one of the Camino de Santiago trails. This section was actually part of a number of different trails.
Pfalzgrafenstein Castle and Kaub
I think these were fields of turnips. Whatever it was it was the only crop left in the ground that we saw.
Bacharach
and a closer view.

Bacharach itself is another very cute town, with half-timbered houses and the obligatory walls, towers and castle. We enjoyed wandering through before stopping at Weingurt Karl Heidrich for food and wine. We had the Flammkuchen mit Speck (a kind of very thin pizza type bread with onions and bacon) to start us off. I had the dry wine tasting and then we had mains. I can’t remember what we had but I do remember it was traditional regional cuisine and good. After dinner we caught the train back to Oberwesel and walked back up the hill (again) to the hotel.

Altes Haus in Bacharach
Flammkuchen and my wine tasting. I saw on the menu that you could order half serves … after I’d already ordered. Oh well!
Shonburg Castle at night

This is post is part of NaBloPoMo. Check out San’s blog for all the details and to join in yourself


Comments

5 responses to “Middle Rhine Valley Day 2: Hike Oberwesel to Bacharach”

  1. Those photos are gorgeous!
    As far as marathon training, I guess hill work is hill work! 🙂

  2. Wow, those views are incredible! Camino de Santiago is one of those “if I ever get to do that” bucket list items, it would be so unreal.

  3. Just beautiful. A three hour hike sounds like the right amount of time. Such amazing views. That is a very thin looking pizza.

  4. I wanted to comment on the Berlin marathon post but couldn’t. so writing here! Big congrats! I really like the course but I agree that majors are so crowded, hard to move around sometimes and the water station area is gross/fall prone. Big you did it despite the cramp.

  5. Got to love those little towns along the Rhine! And I LOVE Flammkuchen, especially with bacon. And white wine. Absolutely delicious!
    The Rhine is dangerously low… it’s really sad how the heat waves took a toll on the lakes and rivers. Lake Zurich has still not quite recovered…let’s hope that the next summer will not be as harsh.

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