"Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it." – Mary Oliver

Camino de Santiago: Leon to Sarria

The transport options between Leon and Sarria on a Sunday were not great so we organised a private transfer with a stop at Ponferrada, a little town on the Camino just over 100km from Leon. The main attraction in Ponferrada is Castillo de Los Templarios, the Templars Castle. The castle was commissioned in 1178 to protect pilgrims walking the Camino. We got the audio guide and spent an hour exploring.

There was a group doing medieval reenactment-type activities inside the castle

Afterwards, we drove over the mountains, following the Camino for a portion of the way. It looked like this section would be pretty tough trek. The highest point of the trail is through this section. The views were beautiful. We arrived in Sarria around lunchtime and were able to check-in to our room. We then went to find some lunch. A specialty of Galicia is the pulpo (octopus), pulpo á feira. The octopus is boiled in large vats, sliced and drizzled with olive oil and paprika. I’m not a huge fan of octopus, the suckers put me off, but I had to try it while we were there. We went to Pulperia Luis, which is recommended by guides. The main room was very full with a big family group celebrating, but they have a downstairs overflow with a lot more tables. We ordered a serve of the pulpo and an empanada with a beer. The pulpo was very tasty and tender, and we enjoyed our lunch. Just after we sat down, a group of Queenslanders were seated next to us. They were a family group who were starting the Camino in Sarria. This is a very common option because to get your Camino certificate, you need to walk at least 100 km, and Sarria is located 115 km from Santiago with a lot of accommodation options. We enjoyed chatting and eating, then left to explore the town.

Slicing the octopus up with scissors. They work so quickly, churning out plates of pulpo continuously.
More scallop shells.
Sarria Castle. In ruins now, it dates back to the 12thC
Chapel of San Lázaro. The only remnant of the leper hospital established in the 13thC.

After our explorations, we stopped at a bar for a drink. There were heaps of pilgrims from all different countries swapping stories. Afterwards, we wandered down the street and ran into the Ladies from Shep, who were having a glass of wine at another bar, so we stopped and sat down for another drink and a chat. We were staying in different accommodations in Sarria but just down the street from each other. We had a lovely afternoon drink, and when we got up to leave, the owner insisted on everyone having shots of a coffee liqueur.

We had a quick toilet stop at our accommodation, then headed down to the river for dinner. Walking along, we decided on Meson Roberta. It was early for Spanish dinner, but we didn’t want to be too late because we had a full day of walking the next day. We had a tomato and cheese salad, croquettes and steak, which were all very good. The couple at the table next to us were from Puerto Rica and were walking from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We had a lovely conversation while we were waiting for our food. That is one of the memorable parts of doing the Camino—all the people you meet along the way.


Comments

8 responses to “Camino de Santiago: Leon to Sarria”

  1. That castle looks like such a postcard-worthy castle. The turrets look so fun and whimsical – like something I’ve only ever seen in a storybook.
    I cut all my meat with scissors (and my pizza, too)! My husband was amazed when we got married that I used scissors for so much, but they work brilliantly.

    1. The castle really was like in a story book.

  2. I love a good castle, and that one looks like it does not disappoint. The scenery there – wow. I would probably avoid octopus even sans suckers. Ha. Meeting so many different people along the way sounds like so much fun. And so interesting. Great photos.

    1. The octopus still had the suckers but they weren’t as off putting as I expected, and it tasted good.

  3. I am enjoying these Camino posts. My husband and I walked the Camino in 2013 starting at St Jean Pied de Porte and fortunately had time to walk the entire 800 km. We carried our packs; something I couldn’t do now. It was the most amazing experience and also the hardest thing I have ever done. We walked the Portuguese route 3 years later. I remember all the little towns you are sharing pics of. We did not eat in fancy restaurants! Mostly ate the “pilgrim meal” and were in bed by 9 as we started at 6 am most days.

    1. I don’t think my husband would have that patience to walk the whole way. By the end of our trip is was not light until 8:45 am in the morning so we didn’t start early because we wanted to see where we were walking. We walk pretty quickly though so we always had plenty of time to have good stops for food and drinks and arrive with time to have a rest before dinner.

  4. Wow, beautiful pictures and it looks like you also dined well 🙂

    1. I try to make sure we get some good food when we travel.

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