Date: Fri 18th October 2024

The last day of our pilgrimage! The first section was once again through forests dominated by gum trees, but soon we were skirting the airport and from there we were in and out of rural and urban areas. Late morning we reached a bar at the 10km to go point, and stopped for a drink. At this point we met up with “The Ladies from Shep.” Afterwards the rain picked up and just after midday we walked a short distance off the trail to stop at a bar. It turned out to be a place mainly frequented by locals and for a change we were the only pilgrims there. Lunch was yummy—tortilla and a mixed salad, along with a Spanish beer. By the time we were finished the rain had cleared which meant we were able to glimpse the three spires of the Santiago Cathedral from Monte do Gozo.

Some fellow pilgrims took our photo near the Santiago de Compostella sign as we entered the city and then we were walking down the city streets. We passed under the neighbouring buildings to enter the Plaza del Obradoiro, the square at the front of the cathedral. Pilgrims and tourists were scattered throughout, pilgrims noticeable by their packs and wet weather gear. We got numerous photos at various points in the square to celebrate our achievement. Then gathered up our friends, “The Ladies from Shep” and headed to the pilgrims office to get our passports checked and collect our completion certificates. It was a well organised system with computers set up to enter your details and receive a ticket. It wasn’t long until our number was called, our pilgrims passports were checked to verify our journey and we received our certificates. We headed off to find our hotel and get clean and rested ready to meet back in time for that evenings Pilgrim’s Mass at 7:30 pm.

After a shower and little nap, we met the “Ladies from Shep” in a bar for a celebratory drink before heading to the church 30 mins before the service was due to start. We should have gone earlier, by the time we got there every seat was taken and we were standing in the first row behind the chairs. Luckily we arrived when we did though because the people standing stretched back through the rest of the church. The Mass is in Spanish but they had a welcome in various languages at the start. They also read out the numbers from each nationality that have completed their pilgrimage that day. During communion the priests situate themselves at various spots throughout the church. G and I got a blessing, and also got into trouble for talking—oops!

Everyone was waiting with baited breath to see if the Butafumeiro would swing. This is the largest censer in the world, weighing 80 kg and measuring 1.6 m in height. It is only scheduled to swing on special feast days but pilgrim groups can make a donation to have it swing during the pilgrim’s mass. almost at the end of the service we realised it was happening and it was spectacular. We were way back but it was amazing to see it swinging back and forth. I couldn’t believe how fast it swung—I found out later that it reaches a speed of 68 km/hr. It soon filled the church with incense. I got some photos of it when we returned to have a closer look at the church the next morning.

Afterwards “The Ladies from Shep,” G and I found a restaurant and had our celebratory dinner to end our time together. What a wonderful experience it was and we all agreed that a major highlight was getting to know each other and spending time together.

The stats from G’s Garmin for the O Pedrouzo to Santiago leg of the Camino: Distance – 20.16 km; Total Elevation Gain – 375 m; Moving Time: 4:15:35.

And off my Garmin for that day: Steps – 34,166

That completed the pilgrimage section of our holiday, but we stayed a few more nights in Santiago which I’ll try to recap before G and I head off on our next big trip at the end of the week.