"Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it." – Mary Oliver

Camino de Santiago: Palas de Reis to Arzua

Date: Wed 16 October 2024

This was our biggest day on the walk—30 km. It rained off and on for a lot of the day. Once again we passed through little villages, with stone homes, churches and horreos. Today there were also multiple stone crosses along our path. We bumped into the “Ladies from Shep” at multiple times today, walking for a while together and then peeling off.

Walking through one of the little villages with “The Ladies from Shep”

Around lunchtime we arrived in Melide, a reasonable sized town. Just before entering the town we crossed the Ponte de San Xoán de Furelos. At this stage we were walking with the “Ladies from Shep” and as we walked through the main part of town a man preparing Galician Octopus at the front of a restaurant called us over for a try. A few of us had some and then decided to go in for lunch—luckily because as we sat down the rain started to bucket down. It was a very large restaurant that soon became packed to the rafters. G and I shared some salad and croquettes. After lunch we split from the “Ladies from Shep” to hunt down some of the local pastries called melindres, which are a bit like small iced donuts. We bought a bag and snacked on them as we kept walking to Arzua, sharing them with “The Ladies from Shep” when we caught up with them. Unfortunately I didn’t take a photo—I was too busy enjoying them.

While in Melide we also had a little look around the main square and inside the Sancti Spiritus Church, but we needed to keep going as we still had a fair way to walk. The path took us through some lovely forest areas. There was one section that smelt like home, because the forest was dominated by gum trees. They have actually become a weedy nuisance in this part of the world.

We arrived at our accommodation—Pazo Santa Maria—around 4:45 pm and settled in quickly. G booked himself in for a massage and we got a drink in the lounge. I settled into the comfy couch and chatted with a lady from the US. Dinner was a three course meal. We sat next to newly-weds from Italy and had a little chat with them before our entrees. Dinner was good, and we went back to our room tired from the day and ready for bed. Just as we were turning off the light we heard noises from the room next door. The walls were obviously very thin. We surmised it was the newly-weds and what followed was two hour, multi-lingual, triple-satisfaction enjoyment—for them, not us. Let’s just say that we were very happy not to run into them next day at breakfast, but we did see them in the distance at various times over the rest of our pigrimage.

The stats from G’s Garmin for the Palas de Rei to Arzua leg of the Camino: Distance – 30.00 km; Total Elevation Gain – 660 m; Moving Time: 6:18:04.

And off my Garmin for that day: Steps – 43,757

Have you ever had an obviously happy couple disrupt your sleep?


Comments

9 responses to “Camino de Santiago: Palas de Reis to Arzua”

  1. Okay, that is pretty funny – though embarrassing…I wouldn’t want to run into them either.
    I’ve definitely heard adult activity happening through the walls at hotels, but never where I could make out words.

    1. She certainly wanted it faster!

  2. Lol, I fear that WE have been that happy couple!

    1. Why am I not surprised?

  3. That forest walkway looks so whimsical with that little path alongside the road. Seeing all your pictures makes me want to do the camino just to see the sights.

    I wonder, did your intuition was to see the sights or the religious pilgrimage experience? Don’t need to answer if that is too personal.

    As for your question. We used to have neighbor who were at it almost every night around 4 am. The guy was roaring like a stag and it was so annoying. One day I wrote a very pissed anonymous letter. I feel almost ashamed after all those years but they were so loud. Also in the house across the yard we had lot of students. Let’s just say spring was noisy.

    1. I wanted to do the walk and see the sites, but I also was very open to the spiritual aspect too. Oh dear, I can’t imagine haaving to put up with that every night, and at 4 am, the worst possible time to be woken up.

  4. When you walk like this, is there a car that goes ahead with your suitcase and so on? Or do you carry it in backpacks?

    I love the idea of seeing all of these little villages but feel like maybe I would want to see more.

    1. There are multiple companies that do luggage transfers along the Camino. Each morning, you put your bag out at reception by about 8 a.m., and it is waiting at your next accommodation when you arrive.

  5. Hah! Sexytime!! I feel like you should have asked them when you saw them next if they had had a good night! I was in Canada in a motel on the ground floor and the couple above me was very loud for a VERY long time at a very early hour in the morning (like maybe 3 am). I heard them leave, and I could not help but peek out my window to see what they looked like, as I imagined Fabio and Pam Anderson in my mind. However, they were normal looking, and even ugly regular folks, and I don’t know why, but that surprised me! I KNOW that regular folks can have sexytime, but I thought they would be hot and young given the fun they were having.

    But. This post is about the Camino! Do you have a cost breakdown? I would be curious how much it cost for everything, and if you don’t want to share, no worries, but I know that most people eat out a few times a day and stay in regular lodging, so would be curious what the daily cost normally is. Also, I normally carry my own bag, so wonder what the cost for the luggage transport is. Also, did you book lodging in advance, or did the luggage transport company do it for you, and if so, does that mean that you could not change it if you were feeling tired (or extra energized)? Anyway, I know that is a lot of questions but I always want details about the logistics part of these kinds of things!

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